JV6 Miata Kit SuperFastMi
I drove one of superfastmiatas' v6 swapped cars last week and holy mother of God gtfd.info%20Miata%gtfd.info Our JV6 Miata Kit provides the builder with all of the basic necessary components and hardware to do this swap along with full support from all of our team. This Mazda Miata is for sale in Athens, Georgia with an asking price of $12, Under the hood sits a L J32 V6 from an Acura TL.
It's rated at hp but that's on 87 octane. Oh, it also already has the Type S heads and intake but with a spacer that helps shift the torque curve down. Honda sold nearly one million of these vans during those three years so finding one is easy. Of course, this is the engine API used in its '92 Civic. As you might expect, the newer engines present installation challenges of their own.
First, there's the drive-by-wire throttle. It'll work, but the donor engine's corresponding harness, ECU, and accelerator pedal must all be used. Reverting back to a non-drive-by-wire setup is an option, but this requires the appropriate throttle body, cable, and ECU, all of which costs more money.
It goes without saying that these newer, drive-by-wire engines are more expensive, even from the junkyards. It's little more than a riser and another familiar-looking billet mount.
The exhaust system is the other problem. Along with the drive-by-wire throttle, Honda developed integrated exhaust manifolds for the newer J-series, which is basically one big exhaust port that hangs off the back of each head.
Today, there are no downpipes offered for these applications since the catalytic converters bolt directly to the heads, but who knows what tomorrow will bring. Honda didn't begin producing these until '03 and, even once they did, they only account for roughly five percent of its total J-series transmission production. Have fun finding one. Both have six gears and are identical save for the Type S' mechanical limited-slip differential. But hunting for a Type S tranny won't seem all that bad when considering the amount of torque you'll be expecting your 2,pound Civic chassis to handle.
No, It's Not Easy Ah, but this is a can of worms. The tough part is integrating the J-series engine harness with the Civic's chassis harness. It's no surprise that the plugs are different, but the J's engine harness will also most likely be from an automatic. And, of course, the newer ECUs all have immobilizers. First, sort out the ECU.
For Sale: Miata with a J32 V6
To make things simple, get a non-drive-by-wire engine along with its matching ECU. Other ECUs can be used, but what does and doesn't work is still being sorted out. To avoid the immobilizer hassle, be sure to get the key and immobilizer ring with the ECU. Simply bring in the title and most dealers will reprogram the ECU to match a new key.
The immobilizer can then be wired appropriately and taped next to the ECU along with the key. You won't need to access these unless something goes wrong. It's easiest to use the donor engine's harness, but with vans made in Alabama, some Acuras and Accords in Ohio, and some random Japanese stuff thrown in just to make things complicated, there're many harnesses. Some route into the cabin where they connect to the ECU, and some terminate inside the engine compartment, sort of like the ''95 Civic.
API used an ''03 automatic CL harness. If swapping a Type S engine, the Type S harness will be necessary to activate the multi-stage intake manifold. Unfortunately, the harness is loaded with stuff that the automatic transmission needs, so some labor is required to strip things away appropriately.
Its power and sensor plugs terminate in the engine bay, while the ECU plugs route into the cabin--like the Civic. Originally made with the help of Hasport, it took pieces from five separate models to work but API's production kit will be offered with off-the-shelf pieces. A great deal of work needs to be done here though. The harness needs power and must be grounded, and connections to the chassis harness need to be made as well as a few other odds and ends.
You could sit down with a pair of service manuals for a couple of weeks, or you could call API, who's already figured it all out. API offers a race harness with a pair of power leads, aftermarket tachometer connections, and cooling fan and temperature sensor outputs.
It's the same harness API uses on its sand rails but will also work for your Civic.
To modify it for Civic use, API fits it with Civic plugs and connectors, and removes the automatic transmission nonsense. Nearly a third of the wiring is taken out. It takes both the Civic's original harness and the CL's to make it all happen--not too much different than a K swap.
API also offers speed sensor-compatible wiring harnesses, which is a huge bonus. Unfortunately, most ECUs are from automatics, which use different speed sensors than the manuals. Without the appropriate speed sensor input, VTEC won't work and, after running for a short time, will force the engine into limp mode.
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The Axles And Shifter The axles began as a combination of about five different OEM pieces but, what with popped joints and broken pieces, a custom set was eventually made. API now offers axles that fit the ''00 Civic and ''01 Integra. They're good to whp and work with the J's stock manual transmission intermediate shaft, so make sure you get that with your six-speed should you go the manual trans-route. And then there's the shifter. Similar to the H- and K-series swaps, the Js all use cable-operated shifter mechanisms.
That means the appropriate cables and shifter box are required.
The tricky part is mounting all of this. The shifter box must be mounted underneath the car and sealed off.
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Only one of the original mounting bosses can be used. To make it all fit, API offers a mounting plate that securely fastens the box without modifying the console or anything else inside.
It's so easy, even your old Civic shift knob will fit. Unlike Civics that use rod linkages, the J-series uses a cable linkage for shifting. The whole assembly must be replaced. An '03 four-cylinder Accord's shifter and cables are mounted from underneath with a custom mounting and sealing plate. The Install Surprisingly, bolting in the J-series is as easy a swap as any, perhaps easier. The toughest part is removing the right-side transmission bracket from the frame rail.
API started with a '92 VX hatchback, which doesn't have power steering. The API kit mounts the engine far back to take advantage of those missing power steering components. Don't worry though; Hasport's kit works with or without power steering. With the OEM bracket removed, the new API bracket bolts to the framerail's underside using the crash bracket holes as locators. API recommends welding the bracket's perimeter and painting it.
This is their preferred method, as it allows power steering and EGR to be retained. Option B is to flip the intake manifold and lower runners degrees, and modify the throttle body mount to angle down to clear the hood.
- Honda J-Series Engine Swap - Wrenchin'
The one on the right will be used in this swap… the other was sold to a friend. All of the old supercharger related gear was pulled off, and the engine was put back to mostly stock.
The car was treated with an AWR widebody kit, Racing Beat front and rear bumpers, custom hood bulge, custom trunk spoiler, beltline delete, new paint, Track Dog Splitter, smoked turn signals, custom painted tail lights, powdercoated door handles, custom strip, and new wheels. I was stuck out of town on a business trip, with Nanner sitting at DFW airport. I finally got a flight home the day before the big game.
I live over an hour from the airport, and was stuck driving home on extreme summer tires. The roads were great for the first half of the drive, but as soon as I got about 30 miles away from the stadium, it went down hill fast. It seemed that they had focused all of the attention on roads near the stadium and neglected those further out.